Null Space Labs

MeeBlip project

Building a Meeblip (original)

<html> <center> <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5399975258/” title=“data by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5019/5399975258_023215624c.jpg” width=“375” height=“500” alt=“data” /></a></center> === Introduction === ==== Sounds like === <object height=“81” width=“100%”><param name=“movie” value=“http://player.soundcloud.com/player.swf?url=http%3A%2F%2Fapi.soundcloud.com%2Ftracks%2F6963480&”></param><param name=“allowscriptaccess” value=“always”></param><embed allowscriptaccess=“always” height=“81” src=“http://player.soundcloud.com/player.swf?url=http%3A%2F%2Fapi.soundcloud.com%2Ftracks%2F6963480&” type=“application/x-shockwave-flash” width=“100%”></embed></object><a href=“http://soundcloud.com/cdm/meeblip-bassline-demo”>Meeblip bassline demo</a> by <a href=“http://soundcloud.com/cdm”>cdm</a> <object height=“245” width=“100%”><param name=“movie” value=“http://player.soundcloud.com/player.swf?url=http%3A%2F%2Fapi.soundcloud.com%2Fplaylists%2F415857&g=1”></param><param name=“allowscriptaccess” value=“always”></param><embed allowscriptaccess=“always” height=“245” src=“http://player.soundcloud.com/player.swf?url=http%3A%2F%2Fapi.soundcloud.com%2Fplaylists%2F415857&g=1” type=“application/x-shockwave-flash” width=“100%”></embed></object><a href=“http://soundcloud.com/cdm/sets/meeblip-demo”>MeeBlip: The hackable digital synth - SOUND DEMO</a> by <a href=“http://soundcloud.com/cdm”>cdm</a> <object height=“81” width=“100%”> <param name=“movie” value=“http://player.soundcloud.com/player.swf?url=http%3A%2F%2Fapi.soundcloud.com%2Ftracks%2F6830968”></param> <param name=“allowscriptaccess” value=“always”></param> <embed allowscriptaccess=“always” height=“81” src=“http://player.soundcloud.com/player.swf?url=http%3A%2F%2Fapi.soundcloud.com%2Ftracks%2F6830968” type=“application/x-shockwave-flash” width=“100%”></embed> </object> <a href=“http://soundcloud.com/cdm/modulations”>Modulations</a> by <a href=“http://soundcloud.com/cdm”>cdm</a>

==== Looks like === Although we have no current plans to use cases, this is what it would look like with one <img src=“http://meeblip.noisepages.com/files/2010/11/MeeBlip-Panel-01_out.jpg”> Costs like -: Around a £Bullseye Bulk buy has brought down costs, and we're working on a few avenues to bring it down more <A HREF=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5399439810/lightbox/”>Handy Resistor colour code template</A>

Build Log of Meeblip #2 Step 1. Start off with the PCB <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397497778/” title=“retro meeblip by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/5397497778_128ea6d98e.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“retro meeblip” /></a> I'm building this Audio end first, because I wanted to look at the noise levels. Step 2. Add the MCP6002 Op Amp ( The flickr site has tags for the location of components) <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397001177/” title=“Install mcp6002 by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/5397001177_045299512d.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Install mcp6002” /></a> Step 3. Add the two 25V(or better) 10uF electrolytic capacitors, this has to be orientated correctly, reference the stripe on the case <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397003623/” title=“25v 10uF by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5397003623_306eba804c.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“25v 10uF” /></a> Trim the leads close as you can, hold on to the leads that will be removed as they'll fly off, or use clippers with a built in catch <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397005721/” title=“Trim leads by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5259/5397005721_6a5f5de33f.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Trim leads” /></a> Step 5. Add the two 470 electrolytic capacitors <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397608230/” title=“470pF by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5397608230_7fe472af86.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“470pF” /></a> Build tip. Splay the leads to hold the parts whilst you solder, as the parts will heat up very quickly <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397011209/” title=“Splay leads by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/5397011209_96868826c6.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Splay leads” /></a> Step 6. Add a 0.01uF capacitor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397014555/” title=“.01uF by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5138/5397014555_e515368fdd.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“.01uF” /></a> Build tip. Pre bend the leads before inserting, find a suitable block of something. I used a small wooden brush to bend the leads to the correct width and shape before inserting into board. <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397021435/” title=“Bend by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5397021435_115e77d04a.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Bend” /></a> <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397054973/” title=“Lead forming tool by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5296/5397054973_2564a3c4c4.jpg” width=“375” height=“500” alt=“Lead forming tool” /></a> Step 7. Add the 1M resistor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397627020/” title=“1M by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5397627020_2de08e0c98.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“1M” /></a> Step 8. Add the 0.1uF capacitor, you can also add it to the other locations at this point. <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397031793/” title=“0.1uF by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5397031793_1d98093f72.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“0.1uF” /></a> Step 9. Add the 4.64K resistor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397637962/” title=“4.64k by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/5397637962_b0e2ddfd10.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“4.64k” /></a> Step A. Add the 23.7K resistor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397640470/” title=“23.7k by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5397640470_795a23a49f.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“23.7k” /></a> Step B. Add the 100 Ohm resistor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397047071/” title=“100 ohm by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/5397047071_9c22ce2a09.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“100 ohm” /></a> Step C. Add the 0.001uF capacitor( may be marked as 1000pF which is equivalent) <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397052309/” title=“.001uF or 1000pF by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5397052309_5fb0d95fee.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“.001uF or 1000pF” /></a> Step D. Add 10.7k Resistor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397055971/” title=“10.7k by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5136/5397055971_4d20c67111.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“10.7k” /></a> Step E. Add 274K resistor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397657972/” title=“274K by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5397657972_bc4907e914.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“274K” /></a> Step F. Add 1K Resistor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397062985/” title=“1k by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5054/5397062985_f824b1ba18.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“1k” /></a> Step 10. Add 10K potentiometer ( volume ) <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397068731/” title=“10k pot by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5397068731_d7ca7c86b7.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“10k pot” /></a> To make it mechanically stronger, add solder on all four sides of the metal tab, top, bottom, left, right. <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397668814/” title=“Solder both sides by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5397668814_999b39d149.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Solder both sides” /></a> Step 11. Add 1/4“ audio jack <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397671068/” title=“1/4 audio by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5397671068_bbc142f4fb.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“1/4 audio” /></a> Step 12. Add 3.5mm audio jack <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397075659/” title=“3.5mm jack by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5296/5397075659_98fc6235d3.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“3.5mm jack” /></a> Testing. i wanted to test the audio signal noise levels here as our first meeblip had some noise Power, scope and signal source added <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397096253/” title=“Testing the amp by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5397096253_fceb8d4906.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Testing the amp” /></a> The device on the right is an Arbitrary Waveform Generator, it basically can generate just about any signal that we need, sine, square, pulse, triangle, noise and any recorded signal (the arbitrary part) The Device on the left is an oscilloscope We can see the signal is the same, except amplified on the right <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397096595/” title=“right side output, left side input by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5137/5397096595_7be1d71ab3.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“right side output, left side input” /></a> Input signal. I'm feeding the op-amp a 10kHz sine wave with a 0-1Volt range <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397695940/” title=“Input by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5053/5397695940_fa918de459.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Input” /></a> The scope is showing the same sine wave, 10.0001kHz but the amplitude is greater <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397696394/” title=“Output by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5133/5397696394_eb257d2cd2.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Output” /></a> A little slice of chaos <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397130085/” title=“chaos by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5018/5397130085_d1d1693211.jpg” width=“500” height=“376” alt=“chaos” /></a> Step 13. Add another 10K Pot <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397736236/” title=“10k pot by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5397736236_fe4ff3f9b4.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“10k pot” /></a> Build Tip. Very carefully straighten the legs of all the DIP packages, they're always slightly splayed for machine insertion. There are some tools to do this at NSL, but its easy. Ground yourself first, then just lightly put pressure on one side of the part onto a hard, flat surface. <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397741208/” title=“Straighten legs by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5397741208_b957377368.jpg” width=“375” height=“500” alt=“Straighten legs” /></a> Step 14. Install ADC7302 <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397142899/” title=“Ad7302 by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/5397142899_b8cc0098d5.jpg” width=“375” height=“500” alt=“Ad7302” /></a> Step 15. Add the ATMEGA32, take your time, straighten the legs. These chips can be hard to come by. <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397749464/” title=“Atmega32, straighten pins before install by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5013/5397749464_bce11017f7.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Atmega32, straighten pins before install” /></a> You can also preprogram the chip before installation with the EEPROM programmer at NSL Step 16. Add the 16Mhz crystal <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397161737/” title=“Xtal by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5397161737_57ece908f7.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Xtal” /></a> Step 17. Add the 10K resistor, and the two 22pF capacitors <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397167351/” title=“10k and 22pF's by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5180/5397167351_40cc50dbdf.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“10k and 22pF's” /></a> Step 18. Add the 0.1uF decoupling capacitor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397773514/” title=“0.1uF by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5397773514_dc05cf52c5.jpg” width=“375” height=“500” alt=“0.1uF” /></a> Step 19. Add a 0.1uF decoupling capacitor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397774134/” title=“0.1uF by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5397774134_fe62301cc6.jpg” width=“375” height=“500” alt=“0.1uF” /></a> Step 1A. Add the ISP programming header, 6 pin IDC. We use this to upload new code into the CPU <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397178543/” title=“ISP Header by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5097/5397178543_bbc1cc53f7.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“ISP Header” /></a> Step 1B. Add the 10uH inductor, its slightly wider than the width of the holes. <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397781510/” title=“10uH by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5177/5397781510_b9c9b9ecd3.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“10uH” /></a> Step 1C. Add the 1N4001 diode, this is for reverse polarity protection (you plugged in the power backwards). <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397184375/” title=“1n4001 by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5291/5397184375_b591298a9c.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“1n4001” /></a> Step 1D. Add all the 1N4148 diodes. These are for the switch matrix <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397798838/” title=“1n4148 by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5013/5397798838_c775e4bb47.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“1n4148” /></a> Step 1E. Add four more 1N4148 diodes (switch matrix) and the 4 switch DIP (midi channel select) <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397814290/” title=“Diodes and dip by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5397814290_38c8daed78.jpg” width=“375” height=“500” alt=“Diodes and dip” /></a> Step 1F. Add Switches ( controls) You might another pair of hands to hold these in as they're soldered on. <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397827118/” title=“Switches by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5397827118_6bf52b7e63.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Switches” /></a> Step 20. Add another 1N4148 diode with two 220Ohm resistors. <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397835596/” title=“1N4148 diode by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5255/5397835596_effc0dbfcb.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“1N4148 diode” /></a> Step 21. Add 1.2K resistor. <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397238077/” title=“1.2k by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5138/5397238077_898ecd7272.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“1.2k” /></a> Step 22. Add the 5.6K resistor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397839020/” title=“5.6k by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5251/5397839020_ffe38f0e5c.jpg” width=“375” height=“500” alt=“5.6k” /></a> Step 23. Add the optocoupler (midi) <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397844448/” title=“Optocoupler by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5055/5397844448_02ed528aa0.jpg” width=“375” height=“500” alt=“Optocoupler” /></a> Step 24. Add the LED, I used a Blue 5MM but it ought to be a red 3mm. If you change the colour the resistor below should be correctly calculated <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397248899/” title=“Led. I used a blue 5mm by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5055/5397248899_763fc958f4.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Led. I used a blue 5mm” /></a> Step 25. Add a 0.1uF capacitor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397853728/” title=“0.1uF by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5137/5397853728_1d4516cc9c.jpg” width=“375” height=“500” alt=“0.1uF” /></a> Step 26. Add 10uF electrolytic capacitor, orientation matters, check the stripe on the side of the can with the - symbol <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397855964/” title=“10uF by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5018/5397855964_08e0c96ce1.jpg” width=“375” height=“500” alt=“10uF” /></a> Step 27. Add the LM7805 regulator, the part number will be vary but it will have LM7085 in it <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397862386/” title=“Lm7805 by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5397862386_843a35b567.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Lm7805” /></a> Step 28. Add a 0.33uF capacitor <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397265633/” title=“0.33uF by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5218/5397265633_5fac6c1126.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“0.33uF” /></a> Step 29. Add the remaining 10K pots, solder the metal tags on both sides <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397273979/” title=“Pots by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5299/5397273979_69fbf1d486.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Pots” /></a> Step 2A. Add the USB connector <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397278659/” title=“Usb by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5397278659_b4e891b48f.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Usb” /></a> Step 2B. Add the MIDI DIN connector <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397887036/” title=“Midi by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5013/5397887036_c90aa8c940.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Midi” /></a> Step 2C. You're done! <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397293787/” title=“Done by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5139/5397293787_9c0e146c3c.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“Done” /></a> Step 2D. Program the CPU with the ISP if you haven't already Get AVR studio from Atmel or boobies Connect up an ISP programmer and use the following settings for the AVR Programmer mode Clicking 'Read' should give you the values you see here <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5402876743/” title=“meeblip_main by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5094/5402876743_020f0347fc.jpg” width=“471” height=“500” alt=“meeblip_main” /></a> <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5402878053/” title=“meeblip_prog by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5215/5402878053_67d6f47034.jpg” width=“471” height=“500” alt=“meeblip_prog” /></a> Program fuses (important or nothing works! <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5402869651/” title=“meeblip_fuses by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/5402869651_5a6de30e04.jpg” width=“471” height=“500” alt=“meeblip_fuses” /></a> Step 2E. Plug it in and make noise Some of the settings won't make noise, and you'll need a MIDI source. <a href=“http://www.flickr.com/photos/51925658@N08/5397967618/” title=“x0xb0x and meeblips by charlie _x, on Flickr”><img src=“http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5397967618_c98a6759c5.jpg” width=“500” height=“375” alt=“x0xb0x and meeblips” /></a>

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