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Don't Place IC202!! Get ADC08L060CIMT first!

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We have three working LF mode readers/simulators now. One more boards is almost completed.

BOM moved to own page

LCD is working!

thumb|center|600px Brown LCD

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Collect your tools, soldering iron with a smaller concave tip set at 600-625F for leaded solder, use 63/47 solder 23 gauge or thinner, flux, wet sponge, good tweezershttp://www.frys.com/product/3053149, dental tool, swab, cleaning fluid, loupe or microscope, light source. Use a grounded conductive ESD safe mat or work top and an ESD safe wrist strap, do not use the 'wireless' type, as they do not work.

Some videos on soldering techniques, a concave tip is used to drag solder, you must use flux as the iron will burn the flux off as its held on the tip.

Water soluble fluxes are generally quite acidic, so they'll eat away at a board or connections after 6 months if you don't clean the board off completely. Don't use tap water unless you dry it with compressed air. Try to minimise the amount of flux you get under a component.

Solder paste is made from 100's of tiny balls of solder held in flux, it is easy to use and helps hold small components in place, however it has the problem of leaving some of the balls of solder in hard to reach places and can cause shorts. These can be fairly difficult to debug, especially if they are under the component.

Leaded solder (SnPb) is usually easier to use since it melts at a lower temperature. It is lead so don't eat it. I prefer 63/37 which is the ratio of Sn(tin) to Pb(lead).

Wattage is not an indication of temperature for a soldering iron. The wattage is basically the amount of heat the iron can generate at once, so if its too small the iron will cool down and you'll have to spend longer holding the iron to the part, this increases the chances of the part or PCB being damaged. A good iron will maintain tip temperature as you work. Clean the tip of iron often,and reapply fresh solder to the tip so it stays shiny.

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Clean the PCB throughly, use isopropol and gently scrub the board of any fingerprints etc.

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Test for power at U101, you should see about 5V either side of it. Switch S1 must be down. Look for 3V on IC103 at the bottom left pin, the board is orientated so that the usb and s1 are at the bottom right. IC103 should hav 3 pins on the right, two on the left if its correctly orientated. The 3V should be pretty much dead on, if you don't see the 5V or 3V unplug and look for shorts or open circuits.

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Next we'll add the parts to power up the AT91 chip, so install , R313, R314. R312, C304, C303, XT2, C301, C302, R315, C305, C306 and IC302. IC302 is the AT91, place lots of flux across the pins, try not to get a lot of it under where the chip itself will be, just the pins. Then carefully place the chip, the ATMEL logo will be going from bottom to top, on the left side. the larger indented circle ought to be at the top left. (where it says TP6/TP5) then when you've got the pins lined up, tag one pin on one corner of the chip, make sure the pins haven't moved, if they have gently push the chip and resolder the pin til it moves into place. R312,R313,R314 are next to each other to the right of D101.

Once you're happy with the alignment and one pin soldered, tag the pin on the diagonal side, and check again the alignment. You can then solder each pin individually or use a technique called drag soldering, this is where you dress up in womens clothes, speak in a squeaky voice and solder all the pins into one large lump.

Spend a lot of time aligning and tagging the first couple of pins on the IC's. You will regret it later if you have to desolder these parts, they are quite difficult to remove and the PCB will only take so much heat, its quite likely you'll lift pads.

Below pic shows a bridge, you don't want this to happen

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To remove a bridge, apply a liberal (Don't freak out american's, not that sort of liberal) amount of flux over the area to remove, get some solder wick and apply some flux to that too. Clean the iron tip.&nbsp;Then put the wick over the bridge and apply heat with the iron gently to the wick, hold it for a second or so and it should start to flow into the wick, it'll suck up the solder like a sponge. DO&nbsp;NOT move the wick back and forward, take it away before it cools off. The solder should come away. Moving the wick across the pads will almost certainly bend pins or lift pads from the PCB.&nbsp; The longer you've got the iron in contact, the more you're likely to do damage, but it'll be a second or two before it starts to flow.

Watch&nbsp;Mr Shaky hands remove a bridge with wick. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rskIO0sM37g

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg2hxpy--gg

Add the buzzer next, Q1, BUZ1, R319. Keep the heat down on the buzzer as it'll melt.

Then place IC104, IC105, IC106 and R102. Test for 3V, 2.5V and 1.2V, remember the AT91 needs to be flashed for these to power up.

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(click through to see full res)

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For solder paste put a very small amount on each pad, then place the component, for the larger IC's&nbsp; first flux the pads, then place the chip drawing a very thin straight line of solder across the pads, at the end of the pins. Don't leave bumps and you probably need less solder paste than you're using, even if you think&nbsp;you did.&nbsp;you can remove bumps of paste with a small knife or dental pick. The pads on the pcb are raised so if you slide the chip off the pads, it'll be harder to get it back on, pick it up with the vacuum tool and reseat it.

the hot plate at nsl reads in C

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You can now wire in the JTAG and test the CPU. Connect the JTAG pins, VCC+GND and power the board from USB by sliding S1 down. Do not use any automatic modes as TRST isn't exposed on the JTAG. The 7 pin IDC header at the bottom of the board is the JTAG socket. This is a Xilinx style connector.

The pins from left to right are&nbsp;

&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; VCC, GND, TCK, TDO, TDI, TMS

These connect with a standard ARM 20 pin JTAG as such

VCC = Pin 1GND&nbsp;= Pin 20TCK = Pin 9TDO = Pin 13TDI&nbsp;&nbsp; =&nbsp;Pin 5TMS = Pin 7

The&nbsp;ARM 20 Pin header is as follows

Ulink arm20pin.gif

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Setting up the compiler

You'll need the ProxSpace and MinGW from above. Edit 0setpath.bat in cockpit for your local paths, add minGW too. 

 unzip it to C:\\MinGW\\

open a command prompt and add C:\\MinGW\\bin to the path ( set path=C:\\mingw\\bin;%path% )

mingw-get install gcc

In _checkmake.bat in cockpit add (use the right paths)

set LIBGCC=c:/pm3/proxspace/devkitarm/bin/../lib/gcc/arm-elf/4.1.0/interwork/libgcc.a

If libgmp-10.dll is not found, add C:\\mingw\\bin
to the path.

Bootloader S19 needs relocating by 0x10,000 with J-flash

fpga s19 relocate 0x10,000

osimage S19 remove 0x3dc20 onwards, relocate 0x10,000

The fpga needs Xilinx ISE webpack, which is a &gt;5GByte download and takes forever to install..

Once its installed add the path C:\\Xilinx\\11.1\\ISE\\bin\ t
or C:\\Xilinx\\11.1\\ISE\\bin\ t64
for 64 bit windows

go into the fpga directory and do

the fpga.bit should then be built.

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The 'eecue' fix

Solder kynar wire to each of the traces, solder to the patch board, add the nokia header, plug in the lcd, verify it works and glue it to the board.

How to glue it to the board and align the pins? Solder tag two pins, on opposite corners of the same side. then gently lift the connector and put a dab of glue underneath, then looking down from the top gently put the connector back down making sure the untagged side is still lined up as the connector can still move, even with the tagging. Maybe use a needle with a drop of glue on the end as an applicator.

thumb|center|600px thumb|center|600px Eecue fix.7z Eagle and gerbers for fix

125Khz antenna LC values 100pf 12.2113 millihenries measure inductance of loop and cap… add inductor to taste. 5315TC-205XGLB with 4.7nf